Solving Coastal Dynamics: Introduction to High Resolution Ocean Forecasting Services

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Abstract. Coastal services are fundamental for society, with approximately 60 % of the world’s population living within 60 km of the coast. Thus, predicting ocean variables with high accuracy is a challenge that requires numerical models able to simulate from mesoscale to submesoscale processes, to capture shallow water dynamics influenced by wetting-drying and resolve the ocean variables in very high-resolution spatial domains. This paper introduceskey aspects of coastal modelling, such as vertical structure of the mixed layer depth, parameterization of bottom roughness and the dissipation of kinetic energy in coastal areas. It stresses the need for models to account forthe nonlinear interactions between tidal currents, wind waves, and small-scale weather patterns, emphasizing their significance in refining coastal predictions. In addition, observational advancements, such as high-frequency (HF) radar and satellite missions like SWOT, provide unique opportunities to observe coastal dynamics. This integration enhances our ability to model physical and dynamical peculiarities in coastal waters, estuaries, and ports. Coastal models not only benefit from such high-resolution observations but also contribute to evolving observational systems, creating feedback loops that refine monitoring and prediction capabilities. Modeling strategies are also examined, including downscaling and upscaling approaches, and numerical challenges like implementing robust data assimilation schemes to refine estimations of coastal ocean states are addressed. Emerging techniques, such as advanced turbulence closure models and dynamic vegetation drag parameterization, are highlighted for their role in enhancing the realism of modeled coastal processes. Furthermore, the integration of atmospheric forcing, tidal asymmetries, and estuarine dynamics underlines the necessity for models that span the complexities of the coastal continuum. It also demonstrates the critical importance of accurately modeling coastal and estuarine systems to capture interactions between mesoscale and submesoscale processes, their connections to broader oceanic systems, and their implications for sustainable coastal management and climate resilience. This work underscores the potential of advancing coastal forecasting systems through interdisciplinary innovation, paving the way for enhanced scientific understanding and practical applications.

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